Monday, May 27, 2024
We are awake later today than usual. Today will be a shorter day of walking. Upon entering the town where we will stay this evening we pause in the centre square for coffee and some sun on a patio. We walk to the albergue, set up our bunks, and then continue to a grocery store where the evening’s provisions are acquired. This evening will be spent with some writing, image selection, and transcriptions from the notebook. Lately, I’ve been falling behind on the evening’s creative production. I want to maintain a consistent creative practice every day along this walk. I don’t want these forms of making stuff to seem like chores or responsibilities. I want to do them, and I love to do them. This is the reason I chose to bring these tools with me. I know, that later on, I will be thankful for spending two hours each night devoted to this project. I prepare for sleep around 10:00 pm. As luck would have it, a sleeper of prodigious and traumatically loud snoring is destroying the bunk below me. Sounds of horrific terror resonate through the metal bedframe to violently rattle my weary bones. A few hours of sleep are gotten.
Today’s distance walked: 36 km | Total distance walked: 714.63 km
“A journey is a journey together, the world is filled with kindness.” — Wisdom written by Kyosuke in my notebook.
Sunday, May 26, 2024
Peter suggests we get out early, starting our day walking by 6:00 am. We rise into the day, prepare, and pack. I speak to a man who knows very little English. As I know very little Spanish, the conversation is strained. He does, however, offer to brew me a cup of coffee from his micro stove as no coffee is available in the albergue. We walk. Fast. We pass many, drunk on the incredible panoramic views of steadily-larger mountains rising ahead of us. Soon, I see the cross at Cruz de Ferro. I walk up to the mound of rocks and immediately cry—emotions strong enough to surprise even myself. Before I can do anything tears are streaming down my face. It is a lot all at once. I climb to the cross, speak the prayer, and lay down the tiny rock I’ve carried from Canada—the symbol of my burden I am now ready to let go of. We continue on, walking excellent trails. At some point, I stop to change batteries for one of the GoPros. It doesn’t work, as all batteries are dead. I spend too much time attempting to get my disorganized shit show of a pack into some semblance of order. I fall way behind Peter and Kyosuke, mistakenly walking an extra three kilometres to the next village, completely missing El Acebo. I realize I’ve messed up when a nice lady in the next village tells me it is back up the hill when I ask where the albergue is. So, I walk back, running and climbing the three kilometres in about twenty minutes. When I arrive at the albergue Federico greets me outside. Peter and Kyosuke arrive soon after. I am tired, cranky, and a bit sore. Pints, writing, and dinner.
Today’s distance walked: 40.9 km | Total distance walked: 678.63 km
“No Pain No Glory Bar Elvis.” — The best dive bar on the Camino.
Saturday, May 25, 2024
The night was quiet—no snoring. We sleep like kings until 6:00 am, rise quickly, and set out walking as the morning sky brightens, transitioning from a royal navy down to a bright cyan clinging to the tops of the distant hills. We walk out of “Hospital de Órbigo” into the countryside—one much more picturesque than yesterday. Today is nice. Rolling hills. Sunrise. Good conversation. The day heats up quickly. The warmest, brightest day yet. Lots of pictures and video footage are made. Laughter and lively conversation were enjoyed. A great day of walking. At the 20 km point, we rest with a coffee break, then power through to 31 km to the village of Santa Catalina de Somoza where we have reserved beds. As much as I want to walk this entire route reservation-free, they provide confidence and assurance of a bed in which to sleep. It is a good albergue—not busy, not loud. A bar is attached with food and pints. Good showers. Sander has felt the need to venture out on his own soon, and we all understand and encourage him. We all say goodbye, see him off, then dig into our afternoons with domestics and sight-seeing. Today on the trail I met a very nice man from the United States with whom I talk with for close to a half-hour. Our walk takes us to an interesting donativo on the trail where several people we know spent the night. Once we are seated on the albergue terrace with food and pints last-minute pranks and jokes are made with our favourite and soon-departed Sander. Washing. Bunks are claimed. Showers and snoozing are enjoyed. Work. Federico’s ten-second portrait turns out well! I met Federico early in this walk, and he has consistently displayed an interesting and creative personality. He also, inexplicably, can show up at the most interesting places along the Camino. I have a long evening organizing work and editing material. By 9:30 pm I finish. I am upstairs by 10:00, climbing exhaustedly into bed. I didn’t realize upon setting out to film this experience that it would take so much creative and physical energy! I am putting a lot of focus and energy into this project—I hope it will yield interesting and creative results. We are sleeping in a room with a profound sleeper who snores loudly. A bit of initial frustration, but once sleep is achieved, I sleep through to 5:00 am.
Today’s distance walked: 31.1 km | Total distance walked: 637.73 km
“If you realize how fragile your life is and how at any moment it could be turned upside down, you will walk very gently on this planet.” — restaurant menu board
