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Day 14 – Friday, May 19, 2023

Bainsville to Pointe-des-Cascades   |   Campsite: 45.32719° N, 73.98002° W

Today represents two weeks of walking! By mid-morning I will have walked to the province of Québec and beyond the border. The morning is pleasant and sunny—full of birdsong as I prepare for the day. As always, I am out walking by 6:00 am. It must have been sometime around 7:30 when I crossed the Québec / Ontario provincial border, walking toward another impossibly beautiful sunrise. The electric orange disk hovering in the lightest-of-light azure skies, empty of cloud. At 7:50 I come across a little building with a picnic table. Maps posted of the upcoming landscape are presented, detailing various routes for cycling. One extends all the way to the Pointes-des-Cascades, a route that closely follows the St. Lawrence River, and the route I have been planning to walk. It is longer in distance but should prove to be much more scenic than routes more inland of the river. I finish up my orange and ginger tea, continuing on by 8:10. Approaching 9:30, I enter Saint-Zotique, an intriguingly neat and well-kept little town. Walking north to a McDonalds located at the on-ramp to the 401, I pass lovely small houses, delightful little parks with families enjoying the sun, and shops occupying little buildings along the town’s business centre. Once seated, I charge batteries, transfer files, back up files to the hard drive, and refill all water bottles. I photographed the bike tour map this morning, and am glad that I did, as I notice a paved multi-use trail running for 10 km through forest and along a rail route bordering the backyards of houses lining the path. It is a very pleasant and relaxing walk, and I make numerous recordings of birdsong along the section. The path leads back to the water, and I find a nice picnic table with an angled sunshade. As the time is 12:00, I pause to cook a noodle and couscous lunch. Pint. Writing. I am loving the day! It is sunny, and mild, with a comforting breeze. Birds are singing everywhere, impressing me with their skill at hitting so many perfect notes. Pack up by 12:45 and continue walking eastward. 23.6 km have been walked, and I would like to continue through to Pointe-des-Cascades. I also want to mention a kind and friendly woman named Sandra working at a convenience store from whom I purchased some snacks for the day. In our conversation, she mentioned that she moved to the region three years ago to get away from the city (I presume Montréal as she later mentioned not having returned to the city in over two years). We both seem to be pulled toward quiet places, and she says that moving to where she is presently was the best decision she has made as she now loves her community. I find the trail that wraps through the forest around Saint-Zotique, and it is lovely to walk as large trees cover the trail in a leafy canopy, providing dappled shade. The trail carries me eastward and is a nice change from both highway and shoreline walking, offering much smaller views of upcoming landscapes. This is a wonderful aspect of this challenge thus far: the types of landscapes and environments throughout the walk have been diverse, constantly providing new and unexpected terrain to observe and through which to move. 6 km later, I break from the trail to enter the tiny town of Le Bas-des-Cedres for some post-walk pints, fruit, and as a treat an ice cream cone. From here, the final 6.2 km is a breeze, an enjoyable stroll down a well-maintained path bordered on each side with manicured cut grass. I find another stellar place to camp right along the trail upon a manicured area of grass bordered by a wall of trees and thick cedar hedges. On the map, I am in Le Rocher-Tendu, just west of Pointe-des-Cascades. As I was setting up the tent, two women cycled by asking where I am off to. I reply “Toronto to St. John’s”, and a chorus of cheers and thumbs-ups are given. One thing I have noticed all along these small towns linked by cycle trails and walking paths is an incredible community of people in love with the outdoors and all activities made accessible to the residents. There is a discernible excitement and connection between the people here and with nature. I have missed this over the past 20 years of living in concrete, asphalt, steel, and glass. I have forgotten the rhythms of nature, and how profoundly they once regulated my younger life. It is incredible to be surrounded by it once again, as I am again beginning to feel natural within it and all of its beauty and mystery. Today has been another good one, both in distance covered, in empathy shown, in the connections made, and in the conversations shared. By 6:46 pm I’ve written the day down in the journal. Tired, achy, but feeling the good kind of weariness that comes with a day in which good work has been made. Feeling strong, confident, and peaceful as the evening darkens into night. I read to 8:30, then suit up for the oncoming cold, reflecting on how I came to be here, in this spot, at this moment.

Today’s distance walked: 45.81 km    |    Total distance walked: 576.15 km

Reflection on Week 2

• Finding the store “Trailhead” in Kingston, replacing old and broken gear, and meeting incredibly cool people!

• Visiting Kingston after walking for a complete week was rejuvenating and exciting!

• Walking and camping through The Parkway was amazing—thanks to the advice from Brenda and Tim.

• Meeting incredibly cool bike-packers Susie and Mike, and hearing about their already incredible year!

• Consistent 40 km (and further) days walking.

• Two full weeks of incredible weather.

• Trail magic, good conversations, and very supportive people.

• Finding and carrying a perfect little Robin’s egg to a veterinary clinic perfectly placed along my route.

• Very good camping, very good sleeping—thanks to Scott for assuring me that I could camp on the park grounds he was cutting.


Day 13 – Thursday, May 18, 2023

Glenwalter to Bainsville   |   Campsite: 45.17705° N, 74.41024° W

I wake into the cold zero-degree morning of 4:00 and snooze until 5:00. GreensPlus, powdered milk, and a granola bar are eaten. Clean cookware. Begin to stretch and change into walk clothing. By 6:30 the bag is packed and I am moving east down Highway 2 that, over the upcoming 12 km to Summerstown hugs the shoreline of the St. Lawrence River very closely. So much so, that the houses perched on the thin strip of land between the roadway and the shore literally push the structures right up to — and in some instances — out over the water. I take a short 20-minute break at a place called Cameron’s Point, where I cook a pot of noodles at 10:20 am. As I am eating, a man drives out of the camp, stops, rolls the window down, and asks if I am going fishing. I tell him I have walked from Toronto and am walking to St. John’s. “Tabarnak!” he says with a big smile, waving as he drives off. Just as I am finishing up, a truck drives up, a guy jumps out with a weed wacker, and begins to disturb the beautiful and peaceful quiet of nature with obnoxious sounds of machinery. I pack up and continue on. I notice a knot in the muscle behind my left knee and take a few moments to stretch it out. Another half-hour down the road I notice a perfect, undamaged tiny robin’s egg lying directly in the centre of the gravel shoulder of the road. I imagine some animal attempting to eat it but having to abandon the effort for some surprise or disturbance. I pick it up, keep it warm in my gloved hand, and carry it with me five kilometres to the upcoming small town of Lancaster. As luck would have it, there is a veterinary clinic on the north side of Highway 401, but when I arrive at 11:30, a sign posted to the door informs me that the office is closed for lunch until 1:00. Return to the McDonalds I had walked by a half-hour ago to charge the Fitbit and the battery bank. I journal the day from yesterday afternoon up to the present. I get all files backed up and call to ensure that the vet clinic is open when 1:00 rolls around. I pack up, have all bottles refilled with water, and walk north retracing my steps back to the veterinary clinic. A sweet woman greets me. I explain what I’ve found, and she explains that their clinic doesn’t deal with birds. She would send me to another clinic one town down the highway but it is not the direction I am moving. I ask if perhaps she could drop the egg off on her ride home, but she says that she lives in the opposite direction. I propose that perhaps another employee from the clinic might be able to, and she says that there is someone who will be able to bring it by the clinic where there is an incubator. She tells me that she will keep the egg warm until delivered. I feel good about this outcome. I’m not sure if the unhatched creature has survived the night as it was quite cold, but if it has, it will have much better chances of surviving in an incubator than out on a cold highway. Go, little dude! A quick stop for pints, and then I am walking east down Old Highway 2, this time north of the 401. I am glad I am up here—the view is good, and there are some beautiful farms along this route. I pass a man working for an electric utility. I ask if he knows of any public land up ahead on which I might camp for the night. We talk for a few moments, and he asks where I am off to. I explain the challenge. “If you ever get the chance, it’s the best way to see the country.” “Good one!” he replies, laughing. I walk along Highway 2 for close to two hours, finding a great spot on a manicured piece of grassland under a wide and full tree. The sliver of land sits between an on-ramp passing overtop of the highway and an access road. I set the tent up facing westward, taking advantage of the wide tree’s branches thick with leaves for shade. The tent goes up quickly. I leave all windows open to allow a gentle breeze to flow through the screening and dry out the tent interior. Cook dinner, take photos, enjoy a pint, record a voice memo, and pack everything into the tent. Clean. Change. By 5:15 I am relaxing on the air mattress journalling out the day. It has again been a very good day walking, with a few interesting events. A nice easy breeze is waving around, exciting the grass and wildflowers into dance. I was thinking about how everyone must have dreams of doing something they innately know they must do. This is what I have been dreaming about for a very long time. I knew that I had to do this, or risk becoming bitter and angry over not achieving a personal dream. I am so thankful and grateful that I have decided that now is the time. Of note: at 6:45 a police car rolls up. The officer is checking up on a call received by a local resident concerned about seeing a tent set up close to the highway. The officer mentioned that it was alright to stay the night in my present spot, and as I explained that I will only be spending the night, he didn’t see this as a problem. He wished me well and drives off down the highway.

Today’s distance walked: 32.43 km    |    Total distance walked: 530.34 km


Day 12 – Wednesday, May 17, 2023

Riverside Heights to Glenwalter   |   Campsite: 45.03187° N, 74.63865° W

By 4:30 I wake into the crispy 2-degree morning. I eat a quick breakfast, stretch, then slowly change into walking gear. The wind pants and shell go on for starting out the day. What a perfect camp area I am walking out of this morning—and I received a good sleep from it! I take photos as I walk toward the town of Ingleside where I stop at a service station for a hot chocolate and bag of beef jerky. I eat and drink as I walk. Through the past few towns, new gravel has been put down along the highway shoulders. It is comfortable to walk on and feels good against the feet, but it is soft so I sink, requiring greater energy to move through it. The rain shell is removed about an hour and a half into walking, but the rain pants remain on through to a town called Long Sault. I walked 18 km by 10:00, which is good. I have been doing my best to achieve at least 15 km by 10:00 am as this opens up more opportunities for the afternoon. As the morning hours offer the most comfortable temperatures for walking, obtaining 15 km by 10:00 am allows for a 15-minute break, followed by 1.5 hours to 12:00 in which another 7–8 km can be walked. Under ideal circumstances, this yields 22–23 km by noon. An hour for lunch, rest, and stretching, and from 1:00 to 3:30 anywhere from 10 to 13 km nicely top off the day with a respectable 36–40 km daily distance. As the hours between 2:00 and 5:00 pm are the most difficult to walk due to the hot sun and humidity, it is very nice to wrap up a day’s walking by 3:30 pm at the latest if possible. Sometimes, it isn’t, and greater distance is simply required in order to find a suitable spot to camp. So far, I have 14 km more to walk toward the city of Cornwall, which is three hours at the most. I will be able to get some banking done as well as get an update on the poison ivy issue at the hospital. Following the highway toward Cornwall is a paved, multi-use trail that winds through forest, along the river, and through wetlands teeming with birds. Today’s walking is made quite peaceful through beautiful nature away from the noise and speed of vehicles. Upon entering Cornwall, the trail turns toward the water, past a massive power plant, and into the waterfront. I find a comfortable bench to boil water for tea and ramen. Finish eating by 12:00, and continue on to Brookdale Avenue which will take me downtown. Angle directly toward the bank and complete my chores within ten minutes, then continue on to the hospital, arriving sometime around 3:00. I wait in the emergency triage room for about an hour, but once called in I am speaking to a doctor within ten minutes. Explain the situation, and he assures me that the poison ivy is healing. He gives me a script for a follow-up on the prednisone in case I should have another run-in with these cranky plants down the road. Walk to a pharmacy to pick up my medication, and as I wait I charge the battery bank. The pharmacist at the cash register asks what I am doing with the pack, and when I explain he says that he would love to do something like this but that his work would never allow him to take the required amount of time off. This saddens me, but I suggest to him that he consider taking time in the future to plan something big for himself to do. I believe everyone should have the opportunity to engage in life-changing challenges. As I leave, he says “Walk safe.” I move quickly through town after acquiring a few pints, down to Montréal Road which turns back into Highway 2. By 7:10 pm I arrive at Precious Blood Cemetery. I notice a number of vehicles parked around the church and find a sign posted communicating that tonight is bingo night. I make my way into the cemetery, finding the most covered, hidden spot next to the water. I cook dinner and enjoy a pint. The evening begins to cool as the sun sets, and I quietly raise the tent. Change, and suit up in everything I have to stay warm. Out of nowhere, I hear two voices. When I peek out through the tent window, I find two guys fishing, casting from shore no more than four metres from my position. Had they arrived as I was snoozing? They don’t bother me, nor do I them. I drift off into sleep before the bingo players leave.

Today’s distance walked: 47.76 km    |    Total distance walked: 497.91 km

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