Thursday, May 23, 2024

León. A zero-day. I will explore the city today and enjoy it tonight. As the apartment we have rented contains multiple rooms where sleep is found easily, we wake up with the luxury of resting until 7:00. Coffee. Breakfast. A few discussions about sections of the upcoming walk, and a few quick ideas put down as reference into writing. We meet some of our Italian friends with whom we explore the cathedral. The old city contains wonderful narrow streets full of bustling locals. Many images are made today. I find it difficult to limit the number of pictures taken, as each corner opens up ever more magical monuments and architecture. A cozy spot in the sunlight where tasty pintxos are ordered sets an agenda for writing, researching, and planning for the upcoming day of walking. I wander over to the rental, Peter drops a key out of the window for me, and I enter to find Kyosuke has offered to cook a Japanese dinner. Afterwards, I wander into the city to compare it to this afternoon’s sunlit version. The city is lit up magically, a warm and sophisticated glow permeates the meandering streets, its stone walls glowing with streetlight. I wander for over an hour when I hear Sander call me over. He has met a new group of people walking the Camino and introduced me to some people new and familiar. A good conversation with a woman I had met early in the Camino is enjoyed. I return to the flat by 6:00 falling into a deep sleep.

Today’s distance walked: — km    |    Total distance walked: 566.13 km

Who are you?

I am a traveller.

Traveller… What is your destination?

Destination?

Yes. What place are you trying to reach?

Ah, place, no. There is no specific place I wish to go.

Then what is the purpose of your journey?

Curiosity.

Sample from the track Distance Mk.II — Method One (from Tayla Presents Soul Survivors Mixed compilation)

Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Arrival in León at 11:00 am. An early beginning to the day begins around 4:30 am. The decision is made to start walking in the dark. Headlamps are used to find our way through the morning. Within an hour we are all separated. Within another hour I managed to lose the trail as it ended at a roadway. I walk onto it, turning right, but it bypasses the upcoming town I need to pass through. I walk into town where I ask for directions to the Camino, and am easily guided toward it by a man unloading bread from a delivery truck. For about an hour I walk alone, finding coffee leaving town. In the next small village, I spot Sander in a cafe and a further fifteen minutes later Peter and Kyosuke approach. From here we walk into León together, locate the booked hotel, and leave our packs in the room. We next visit the market, locating pints and coffee. Federico arrives soon after, joining in the conversation and beverages. The highlight of the evening is the ratatouille Peter prepares after we pick up all the required ingredients. Some downtime before we walk into the evening of León meeting new friends Seb from the UK completing the Camino on his bicycle, and Faye who—after cycling a long stretch of the way—will be continuing her Camino beyond León on foot through to the city of Santiago. I stay for a pint, laughing and tripping over everything, capturing a few shots. I don’t remember what time we returned to the flat. Today was a great day with some solitude and some evening to relax into.

Today’s distance walked: 27.2 km    |    Total distance walked: 566.13 km

“We have everything we need. The wilderness is unfolding in front of us.” — Scott Carrier, from Running After Antelope (This American Life podcast).

Tuesday, May 21, 2024

A slightly longer detour route is decided upon, taking us further away from roadways and the sound of traffic. The day’s walk is largely made in a straight line, surrounded by beautiful scenery. Mountains hover over far-off horizons, and clouds swirl into dramatic compositions early into the afternoon. A brief trailside lunch break with Sander is enjoyed. Reliegos is where we spend the evening, a small town where everything we need for the afternoon and evening is available. An hour is devoted to saving the day’s collection of images and videos before falling in with everyone over pints at the pub—Bar Elvis. It is run by a hospitable owner joining our jokes, photos, and conversations. The bar interior is completely covered with the writing and drawings of customers, and I take the time to add one of my own.

Today’s distance walked: 30.1 km    |    Total distance walked: 538.93 km

Somehow, I often find myself drunker than members of the Vietnam War press corp, here in wonderful Spain…