Sunday, May 5, 2024
The morning arrives early. A determined sound of preparatory busyness shakes me into waking consciousness: snoring, bodies rising from bed, and packing bags. I do not sleep long or deeply. I am still high from crossing the Pyrenees yesterday. A handful of us cannot sleep, so we decide to use the time walking. Out early into the darkness on this second day, five beams of light were projected in front of us, illuminating the trail. We occupy the realm of the silent, deep, dark forest, moving through it and casting shaky shadows onto the foliage. The day warms with the early morning fingers of sunlight cutting through the trees. I spend this time in The Silver Hour, thankful for those around me as we walk through day two: Eddy and Paul, two cats who will become important trail mates over the upcoming days of pilgrimage. We walk close to 30 km into the small town of Zubiri where we will front the lineup for beds at the municipal Albergue. Shower, hand-wash laundry, some food, and a few post-walk pints. Sandwiches prepared for tomorrow’s day out on the trail. I already know this is one of the most meaningful things I have ever done!
Today’s distance walked: 28.20 km | Total distance walked: 60.91 km
“No tears. The Lord decided that it was time.” — from Iron Claw
Saturday, May 4, 2024
At 5:00 we rise for coffee and fruit. As the kitchen becomes busy, conversation fills the room. A final gear check is made. The watch is fully charged. I head out for this first day of my Camino experience into the Pyrenees Mountains with three people sharing the room of the Albergue I was lucky to have slept in last night. The morning is early enough to be dark and cool. I would see the sun climb into the morning, bringing with it clarity and warmth, lighting the way up towards the heights of this intriguing mountain range. About two hours into the walk I settle into my stride. From here, I walk alone, through wind gusts and switchbacks. I feel good. Many photos and video clips are taken.
Impossibly exquisite perspectives stretching kilometres into the distance are offered around each bend in the road. My arrival at Roncesvalles is made in the early afternoon. I would meet the first people on the Camino with whom I would walk for days. I had no reservations—I would walk for days without them. I found them to be an incumbrance, distractions. I preferred walking without making such plans. I don’t need to rely on tech for this walk: I can do the work. I walk fast, I walk strong, and I walk far. Arriving early at albergues based on my strength and ability is how I will complete this walk. A wonderful dinner is enjoyed among a tableful of Canadians who laugh loudly and enjoy having fun. A deep but distracted sleep is settled into afterwards in which I wake several times
Today’s distance walked: 32.71 km | Total distance walked: 32.71 km
Friday, May 3, 2024
0 km
After many hours of travel—overseas flight to Paris, connection to Biarritz, train to St-Jean-Pied-du-Port—I arrive at the start. This is where my walk along the Camino de Santiago begins. The past few days have been a blur. Now, I have arrived. I find myself perched on the north edge of the Pyrenees Mountains in a tiny village deep in the French hillside. I have found a bed in an albergue for the night. I have everything I need. I will be living out of my pack for the upcoming seventy days walking the Spanish countryside along the way of St. James. The day has been long; the written intro to this challenge will be short. Tomorrow begins an exploration I have daydreamed about for over a decade. Tonight I will sleep well in anticipation of 70 days walking through northern Spain.
Today’s distance walked: 0 km | Total distance walked: 0 km
“Today you will see people you will meet tomorrow.” — “Buen Camino: Walking the French Way”, Flagler Films
