Friday, May 17, 2024
We move through fields surrounded by mountain ranges, rendered grey-blue through the effect of atmospheric perspective. The centuries-old architecture allows us passage through walls long collapsed, walking through structures left standing by load-bearing supports and weight-channelling arches. Clusters of stone and massive brick dot the horizon, rising from fields of waving grass. Clouds form, rain falls, and as suddenly we are entering town. I end the day reflecting on a walk through distant history, made in the short hours of an early afternoon. My prank of chirping out einstürzende neubauten when the two Dutchmen converse in their native tongue reaffirms our walking through this place heavy with the weight of history.
Today’s distance walked: 27.4 km | Total distance walked: 415.71 km
“The weak become heroes and the stars align.” — The Streets, Weak Become Heroes (from “Original Pirate Material”)
Thursday, May 16, 2024
Our plans were thwarted to wake up by 7:00 am due to noisy early risers, as always. We prepare quickly, pack, and grab breakfast downstairs before setting off. Yesterday we were turned away from a full albergue, forcing us down the Camino ten kilometres. We unanimously agree that our new-found lodging at the end of an extra long day was superior to our initial choice. Today, we begin walking the flatland Meseta! This is the area comprising the central plateau of Spain. Largely grassland, the views afforded stretched for tens of kilometres in all directions. The wind can be spotted in waves through the grasses and immature fields. Sander suggests a group challenge: two kilometres from a hill, he proposes a race to the top. A half-hour of running, top-gear hiking, and scrambling up a 110-metre hill over four kilometres produces four wheezing and red-faced Camino pilgrims. Laughs. High-fives. Pranks. Congratulations Sander—today’s best man on the Camino! Find our albergue. We eat a “pilgrim menu meal”, a three-course dinner set at a reduced price for those carrying a pilgrim passport walking to Santiago. We meet a wonderful French couple at our table, speaking mixed sentences of English and French to tell our stories. A very satisfying day on the way! Great scenery and wonderful camaraderie. Silly and irresponsible challenges produce laughs from fellow pilgrims. A tasty dinner followed by many chess matches with the lads before turning in for the night.
Today’s distance walked: 37.9 km | Total distance walked: 388.31 km
Merging the ridiculous with the significant.
Wednesday, May 15, 2024
Today I explore the city of Burgos. I will stay in the same municipal albergue two nights—possible if the reason is properly explained to the hospitalieros in advance. I walk the city, take many photos and videos, write, eat, drink, and return to the albergue at the end of the day tired but feeling good! I chance upon a group close to my heart, talking with them all in the common room until the lights are turned off. I will be leaving tomorrow—this intriguing group has arrived for their rest day tomorrow. I feel a pull to stay an extra day but know that this will violate the cadence of my walk. “Hike your own hike”. This rule—sacrosanct in hiking circles—is paramount, no matter how strong the urge to conform to other’s plans. If adhered to properly it will safeguard one’s aspirations and produce quality experiences aligned with one’s expectations. I say goodbye, feeling it best to rise to my bunk quickly—not trusting my emotions. Prepare for sleep, plunging into the darkness of deep rest only a full day of exploration can inspire.
Today’s distance walked: — km | Total distance walked: 324.11 km
