Saturday, June 8, 2024

I believe that I slept well, given last night’s midnight bedtime. I descend to the kitchen by 6:30 am to pack the unorganized disaster that is my pack. I’m off to a grand start: the laundry is damp; none of my devices or cameras are fully charged; all of my disorganized gear lay in a heaped, disordered mess. I descend to the common kitchen to get a headstart on this before the group sets out into the morning. A light rain falls, but it is not worth worrying about. I spend the day walking and thinking ahead. What is beyond Finisterra and Muxia? Will I walk the Camino del Norte backward along the northern coast of Spain to Biarritz—the city into which I flew to begin this adventure? Walking into Finisterra, we are greeted upon entry downtown by the group of Italians we’ve been leapfrogging all along this route for 36 days. They have occupied a local bar, the mighty Federico seated outside in the sunshine. I enjoy these encounters so much!

We check in, obtain our Finisterre Camino certificates, and leave the packs in the albergue. We then head out in search of the beaches surrounding the town. Claudio leaves on a bus, and we see him off. Dinner is depressing. People are sad at those leaving this experience. I don’t understand it, but I keep it to myself. I am more interested in this life by enjoying every precious minute, not sulking or crying because I’m not getting my way. I stay with my experience of those I enjoy most as fully as possible until it ends. Then, I let it go. I let them go. I’m not selfish with this. And he does. He returns to his former life, as expected. The usual chores are done, and another day of video and images is saved for this creative project. A good day!

Today’s distance walked: 36.5 km    |    Total distance walked: 1053.93 km

Friday, June 7, 2024

It’s an easy morning. The air is cool and the predawn landscape is quiet, save for the birdsong and breeze leafing through the trees. The morning walk has been interesting, winding through tiny villages under light clouds blown quickly through the sky. A coffee with a light breakfast is enjoyed in Lago over a 30-minute stop. I’ve been walking ahead of the group for much of the morning. While I love walking with this group, some days I need some crisp, quick walking made for endorphin enjoyment. I am an advocate for quick, short walking days. This is my mantra, loving days when good distance is made with confident pace early in the morning. This affords that walking is enjoyed during the most enjoyable cool hours of the day. It provides time for cleaning and hanging laundry to dry fully in the sunshine. It provides the peace of mind that good work has been done on the trail, and the distance acquired can be measured on a map. We climb mountains in the sun, and I shift into high gear. A well-positioned patio at the top of the ascent catches my attention, and I settle in for a pint. Hills with scenic views are ascended, and lush forest trails bathed in dappled sunlight are walked. As we descend, the ocean peaks through the conifer trees defining the upcoming section of the trail. The North Atlantic Ocean. I have now walked to this ocean twice—once eastbound in Canada, and now westbound in Spain. We walk through Cee, find the albergue, check-in, and then rush to the closest beach to swim. Showers, then out to the town square where we find a wonderful restaurant and seafood for dinner. I buy groceries after the meal, returning to the beach now darkening in the early evening fade. I experiment with the GoPro, capturing the sunset. I return to the albergue, worn out but feeling content with the fullness of the day.

Today’s distance walked: 46.6 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,017.43 km

“Showoff Roadshow.” — Study for a series of design works inspired by portmanteaus.

Thursday, June 6, 2024

Today I will begin the walk beyond Santiago toward Finisterre. I’m not sure exactly how I am interpreting this section of trail: does it belong to my walk along the Camino, or is it an additional element undertaken due to being in the neighbourhood? I break at 10:15 am, enjoying coffee and lemon radlers in the village of Padrón. The morning is already hot! Humid. I’ve walked 15.4 kilometres by 10:30 am. Finish up quickly, returning to the humid air outside on the trail. I walk consistently until noon, arriving at the town of Negreira. A tasty pint is enjoyed as I plan where I’ll stay the night. The temperature feels too hot to continue for another 30 kilometres to Olveiroa. I decide to check out the municipal albergue, where Paul is relaxing on the hostel patio. We talk for a few minutes. I don’t feel satisfied with so many hours left in the day to stop at 20 kilometres. He mentions that the group just left town no more than 20 minutes ago. I continue to walk, confident that I’ll catch up to them. Within an hour I see them ahead, and in another thirty minutes, I am walking alongside them. We walk to 6:00 that evening—to Santa Mariña. I have been thinking about changing upcoming plans—I’ll give this more reflection. Is this really what I want to do? Check-in, shower, and laundry are completed before getting to the important work. I work quickly, having lots to do. As I finish up, the group arrives from the grocery store with snacks for the evening. Pints, stretching, and then it is time for sleep which arrives quickly.

Today’s distance walked: 54.6 km    |    Total distance walked: 970.83 km

“If not now, then when.” — Graphiti on a bus stop window, and a point of personal critical reflection when weighing large decisions.