Wednesday, May 8, 2024

26.4 km

We have given ourselves a little latitude today. It came in the form of an upcoming municipal albergue that Paul had spotted online last evening. Many beds are available, with an opening time of noon. I begin the day preparing the pack by 5:30. Breakfast is quick. Before I know it Paul and I are walking the lit streets through the early morning darkness. I climb quickly, settling into a pace close to my top gear. After an hour of walking, I meet up with Jess on the trail. We walk into a beautiful village built on the apex of a hill, stopping briefly at a café patio for coffee and fun conversation with the larger group. From here, the walk to the town of Estella is quick, very scenic, and fun, talking fearlessly and exchanging ideas on topics wide and intriguing. A few churches along the way are explored and photographed, with the municipal albergue emerging soon down narrow streets. Check-in, shower, launder clothing and hang to dry. Pilgrims congregate around the albergue patio table for enjoyment. Laughs, goofs, jokes. Later into the evening we walk toward the centre of the old city and find a restaurant serving paella in the square—the Plaza de Santiago. Tables are pushed together, and a wonderfully fun meal is enjoyed with incredible people. An exceptional day was spent with people I am magnetically drawn toward, lost in wonderful conversation. This is the day where certainty and love come together over my camino.

Today’s distance walked: 26.4 km    |    Total distance walked: 156.11 km

“I need to walk fast or I’ll lose my brave.” — A pilgrim perspective on walking

Tuesday, May 7, 2024

38.1 km

We slept late this morning. Eight glorious hours of rest, waking at 5:00. By 6:00 I am preparing the pack, shimmying into gear, and discussing the upcoming day’s worth of walking with my mates. Today we’re aiming for the town of Puenta La Reine. By the time we are outside the silver hour is upon us, the steely light of the pre-dawn early hours coating everything in a metallic sheen. We walk out of town together and into the surrounding fields of variegated green—a wonderful patchwork randomized by nature. Soon we are climbing into hills dotted with wind turbines, and ascending hilltops where statues of pilgrims frozen in time gaze into the breathtaking 360-degree view for kilometres. A break, and then we descend. I take a 2 km detour to walk to the famous Iglesia Santa Maria de Eunate. I am surprised to find the path empty. Nothing but the wind and endless sky. Solitude, for an hour or so. Upon arrival, I check in to the albergue, clean, settle in, and then join those travelling with me for a meal. These days have all been amazing, aches and pains withstanding.

Today’s distance walked: 38.1 km    |    Total distance walked: 129.71 km

“Where the path of the wind meets that of the stars.” — Monument to the Camino at the El Perdón Pass

Monday, May 6, 2024

28.2 km

6:00 we walk, experiencing every kind of trail possible: single-track, double, soft earth, gravel, paved, stone, and paved. I walk alongside a pilgrim for the first two-thirds of the day, venturing on my own as the afternoon matures, making great use of time. Entering the city of Pamplona seems significant, taking images of the Casa Consistorial in the plaza, the Museo del Catedral, and the Albergue Jesús Y Maria. Today is a good day to wander an unfamiliar city after walking through forest, field, and river bank. A relaxing shower is my daily prize, enjoyed no matter the temperature of the water. This is followed by chores of hand-washed laundry, made before seeking out some pintxos and pints for dinner. I settle into sleep early, anticipating tomorrow.

Today’s distance walked: 60.91 km    |    Total distance walked: 91.61 km