Saturday, May 25, 2024

The night was quiet—no snoring. We sleep like kings until 6:00 am, rise quickly, and set out walking as the morning sky brightens, transitioning from a royal navy down to a bright cyan clinging to the tops of the distant hills. We walk out of “Hospital de Órbigo” into the countryside—one much more picturesque than yesterday. Today is nice. Rolling hills. Sunrise. Good conversation. The day heats up quickly. The warmest, brightest day yet. Lots of pictures and video footage are made. Laughter and lively conversation were enjoyed. A great day of walking. At the 20 km point, we rest with a coffee break, then power through to 31 km to the village of Santa Catalina de Somoza where we have reserved beds. As much as I want to walk this entire route reservation-free, they provide confidence and assurance of a bed in which to sleep. It is a good albergue—not busy, not loud. A bar is attached with food and pints. Good showers. Sander has felt the need to venture out on his own soon, and we all understand and encourage him. We all say goodbye, see him off, then dig into our afternoons with domestics and sight-seeing. Today on the trail I met a very nice man from the United States with whom I talk with for close to a half-hour. Our walk takes us to an interesting donativo on the trail where several people we know spent the night. Once we are seated on the albergue terrace with food and pints last-minute pranks and jokes are made with our favourite and soon-departed Sander. Washing. Bunks are claimed. Showers and snoozing are enjoyed. Work. Federico’s ten-second portrait turns out well! I met Federico early in this walk, and he has consistently displayed an interesting and creative personality. He also, inexplicably, can show up at the most interesting places along the Camino. I have a long evening organizing work and editing material. By 9:30 pm I finish. I am upstairs by 10:00, climbing exhaustedly into bed. I didn’t realize upon setting out to film this experience that it would take so much creative and physical energy! I am putting a lot of focus and energy into this project—I hope it will yield interesting and creative results. We are sleeping in a room with a profound sleeper who snores loudly. A bit of initial frustration, but once sleep is achieved, I sleep through to 5:00 am. 

Today’s distance walked: 31.1 km    |    Total distance walked: 637.73 km

“If you realize how fragile your life is and how at any moment it could be turned upside down, you will walk very gently on this planet.” — restaurant menu board