Sunday, May 26, 2024

Peter suggests we get out early, starting our day walking by 6:00 am. We rise into the day, prepare, and pack. I speak to a man who knows very little English. As I know very little Spanish, the conversation is strained. He does, however, offer to brew me a cup of coffee from his micro stove as no coffee is available in the albergue. We walk. Fast. We pass many, drunk on the incredible panoramic views of steadily-larger mountains rising ahead of us. Soon, I see the cross at Cruz de Ferro. I walk up to the mound of rocks and immediately cry—emotions strong enough to surprise even myself. Before I can do anything tears are streaming down my face. It is a lot all at once. I climb to the cross, speak the prayer, and lay down the tiny rock I’ve carried from Canada—the symbol of my burden I am now ready to let go of. We continue on, walking excellent trails. At some point, I stop to change batteries for one of the GoPros. It doesn’t work, as all batteries are dead. I spend too much time attempting to get my disorganized shit show of a pack into some semblance of order. I fall way behind Peter and Kyosuke, mistakenly walking an extra three kilometres to the next village, completely missing El Acebo. I realize I’ve messed up when a nice lady in the next village tells me it is back up the hill when I ask where the albergue is. So, I walk back, running and climbing the three kilometres in about twenty minutes. When I arrive at the albergue Federico greets me outside. Peter and Kyosuke arrive soon after. I am tired, cranky, and a bit sore. Pints, writing, and dinner.

Today’s distance walked: 40.9 km    |    Total distance walked: 678.63 km

“No Pain No Glory Bar Elvis.” — The best dive bar on the Camino.