Monday, June 3, 2024

This morning I slept in. 6:30 I stumble out of this massive albergue into the cool and quiet morning. I walk for half an hour to the first cafe I see, stopping for coffee, orange juice, and a croissant. There is simply no rush today. There is no need. I am only five kilometres from Santiago. I reach it within fifty minutes. Today I experienced a calmness identical to that on the final day of my through-hike last year from Toronto Ontario to Sydney Nova Scotia. Everything around me seems as though it is in slow motion. I feel both satisfied and calm. This might be due to overcoming difficult challenges—completing something big and daunting. I walk into the city limits of Santiago, eventually into the Cathedral Square. I sit, looking upward at the architecture of the towers. I watch pilgrims enter the square, first one by one, later in streams. I watch it all as if in a trance, sedated by the movement. I sink into the archaic stones underfoot. Hungry, I set off in search of breakfast. I find a cozy corner where I write, book a hotel for a few nights, and plan what I want to see and where I’d like to wander. The weather app forecast is sunny, clear, and hot. Sander arrives and Chloe walks into the square, laughing and taking photos. We get organized and stash our packs, wanting to attend the pilgrim mass at the cathedral to see the remains of St. James. Next, we obtain our printed compostellas from the pilgrim office and agree to get together this evening for beverages. I locate a patio close by and enjoy a menu del dia. I write and enjoy a few pints before walking to the hostel. Shortly, Sander messages me with a location and I aim toward the tiny band, recently completing their pilgrimage. Drinks are enjoyed on a lovely patio, followed by much more conversation as we find our way across town. My hostel has no curfew—my key allows entry at any time of night. A wonderful evening of celebration is enjoyed. 2:30 we leave for sleep, terminating a great day! Flawless weather, attaining Santiago, and rest.

Today’s distance walked: 5 km    |    Total distance walked: 916.23 km

Does Marlow realize the ramifications involved before plunging into the heart of darkness?