Tuesday, May 28, 2024

Sleep was strained last night. I’m not cranky or underslept when I wake—just misunderstood. I decide to rise early, the albergue still dark as I have no idea how to turn the lights on in the kitchen where I set up the laptop to write. By 7:00 am the common area is full with people making last-minute adjustments to equipment. Today’s walk begins on fairly level trails leaving Ponferrada. Several moderate climbs, vineyards bordering the trail, and trees casting dappled shade over the path in front of us. Later in the afternoon Peter and Kyosuke decide to keep walking into the late afternoon. I flip an imaginary coin in my head: press on with Peter and Kyosuke to the next town or stop with the group in Villafranca del Bierzo. The mid-afternoon is heating up, so I decided to stay. A municipal albergue with plenty of bunks guarantees a night here in town, and the decision is easily made. We then walk down to the river snaking through town where we “swim”, undoubtedly violating every municipal bylaw in the books. It is fun with lots of big laughs! I return to the albergue with Greg and Magnus to complete a load of laundry, before setting to work on writing and photo editing which I focus on until 7:00 pm. While working a wonderfully friendly Korean woman approaches, asking to see my notebook. She sees the Japanese characters written by Kyosuke and asks if I know how to read Korean characters. I say that she can write in my book, which she does, taking much care in their rendering. She wants to show me the difference between the structures of Japanese and Korean characters. We fumble through a conversation, many hand gestures and laughs. It is a wonderful way to end the day.

Today’s distance walked: 29.8 km    |    Total distance walked: 744.43 km

“Don’t try to be sure ’cause after there’s no space.” — Graffiti written on a factory wall.