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Day 54 – Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Victoria to Charlottetown   |   Accommodations: Charlottetown Inn & Conference Centre, 238 Grafton St, Charlottetown PE

It is difficult to put the day into motion. 4:30 I wake, and as I eat breakfast and stretch I find that I am stalling. It is warm and comfortable under the covers here on the ThermaRest, and for a moment I think about staying put for another half hour. But I will myself into action with the knowledge that later today the city of Charlottetown—which I have been considering one of the top highlights of this challenge—is just around the corner. By the time I am ready for the day it is 6:00, and I am walking into what will be a long day. I walk Highway 116 toward the Trans-Canada Highway, which for a few kilometres is the only roadway in the direction I am moving. Just before exiting onto Highway 19, I walk up to a grocery store with an attached restaurant in the area called DeSable, where I meet Terry who is able to produce a plate of thick toast and blueberry jam with hot coffee! We discuss the upcoming route I will be walking into Charlottetown which follows as much of the shoreline as possible. The 19 Highway takes me through Argyle Shore to Long Creek, to Meadow Bank, all the way northeast toward the town of Cornwall where I find a grocery store. I stock up on water, orange juice, and a few cold pints, drinking plenty of each in the humidity of the afternoon. The staff has recommended a park nearby that is comfortable for cooking some lunch and resting before the final push into the city of Charlottetown, now only 12 km away. The walk from Cornwall into Charlottetown is made by way of a paved bike and walking trail which is relaxing, separated safely from the traffic. The city limits are crossed by 2:00, in which I aim for the hotel downtown. By 3:00, heavy rain begins to fall. It is so heavy that within the time I am able to pull the rain jacket out from the pack I am soaked. It is not a cold rain, but rather relatively mild. It is so heavy that water rushes through the paved streets, angling downhill in quick-flowing torrents that reach the top of my ankles. The sky is the darkest of grey, transformed in minutes. Another dog begins barking at me with an owner who doesn’t seem to mind. I respond relatively poorly to the rapidly-changing situation of the day’s walk, and for a few minutes, I hate where I am and what I am doing. Traffic speeds dangerously everywhere, obliterating the sounds of nature with its growling, snarling aggression. Entering Charlottetown under these conditions does not conform to my dreams of the city: this first impression shatters my notion of the peaceful, placid, serenely beautiful city on the water. When at 4:00 I arrive at the hotel I am not a happy camper: completely soaked, exhausted, and a bit deflated. The clothing is hung to dry, and the sink is filled for clothing requiring cleaning to soak. I head out in search of food and beverages with which to return to the hotel. I am informed that the wifi in the hotel is down, inhibiting my ability to post online. So, I am frustrated, grumpy, and acting out childishly. After I order a wheel from Piatto Pizzeria and enjoy some cold, cold pints, I begin to feel better and smarten up. Until then, wrath.

Today’s distance walked: 45.64 km    |    Total distance walked: 2,035.91 km

“Get caught in the rain. We dare ya.”“Discover Charlottetown PEI Official Travel Guide, 2023”, p. 19.

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