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Day 31 – Monday, June 5, 2023

Recul-à-Rankin to Rivière-du-Loup    |   Accommodation: Auberge Internationale, 46 rue Hôtel de Ville, Rivière-du-Loup

The day gets underway with an unending barrage of screeching crows hurling insults at one another with a savage intensity. I am walking by 5:30. Surprisingly, the hills that I have walked behind—now separating me from the river—have cut off the wind, save for the remains of a comfortable breeze. I walk two hours to 7:30, breaking for a snack and hot chocolate when I arrive upon a scenic rest area showcasing barns and hills in the distance. So far I have 12 km completed with 19 km to reach the city of Rivière-du-Loup. The sun is now brightening up the day, so I finish eating by 8:15 in order to return to the road. A few hours of walking Highway 132 lead me to the wonderfully silent and sleepy road Rte du Fleuve which runs directly along the river on which quaint homes and auberges line the narrow road. The shoreline can be viewed for most of the way, taking me about 3 km from the city. Even when the road returns to the 132 the walk remains a lovely, peaceful affair. By 11:30 I am approaching the city limits of Rivière-du-Loup, and by 12:00 I am seated outside of a newly constructed motel hosting a comfortable social space including couches and tables. I enjoy a pint and some food, a celebration of being finally introduced to this city of which I have heard so many stories. I walk into the city, buying and eating some fruit along the way, then finding some internet. By 4:00 I arrive at the hostel and am able to check in right away. I am excited about the room as it is small containing a comfortable bed, a writing desk in front of a window, a sink, and a private bathroom—everything needed and nothing more. It is a comfortable space, and I love it! I soak the clothes in the sink in the main room before leaving to pick up food for dinner: sushi and poutine. While waiting for the poutine I have a great conversation with two young people working at the restaurant. We discuss the province, everything I’ve seen and have been impressed by, and their political views on what they consider to be their contemporary Québec and what they would like to see in the future. It is interesting to hear young people so passionate about their world, and their politics expressed. Returning to the room I organize the gear, set to writing up the day, and enjoy the hot water in the shower. After all of the clothing has been soaked and washed it is hung up to dry. The rest of the evening is spent horizontally enjoying the NHL playoffs, some reading, and falling into a deep, dark sleep.

Today’s distance walked: 38.5 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,182.48 km

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