La Pocatière to Recul-à-Rankin   |   Campsite: 47.63957° N, 69.75880° W

The temperature overnight drops to 5 degrees feeling like 2, but by the time the tent and gear are packed, it begins to rise. At 5:00 when the restaurant behind which I camped opens I pick up a coffee, fill up on water, and begin walking by 5:10. I continue walking down the gravel trail until it ends in about an hour and a half. I transfer to Highway 132, then to a small road called Ch du Sud-de-la-Rivière, choosing it in order to get some great panoramas of farmlands. I return to the 132, walking through the very small village of De Saint-Just through to the slightly larger village of St-Denis where I pause to eat at a closed taco stand, taking advantage of the covered outdoor patio where comfortable chairs and tables are arranged. About ten minutes into my meal the owners arrive, pulling onto the property. They are not surprised, as they explain people will often stop here when the restaurant is closed, so they allow me to eat and even ask me about what I am doing. They are a young couple, gentle in manner, and inquisitive. They are fun to talk with. I return to the road by 10:15. Walking from St-Denis to the town of Kamouraska is difficult. The scenery is beautiful, but by now the wind has increased to a constant force, never letting up. When I arrive, I stop at the general store Le Jardin du Bedeau and pick up some pints and dried meats. Down the road, I stop for a half-hour snack at a very small cemetery where picnic tables have been set up overlooking large scenic views of surrounding hills and fields. Trees here help to reduce the effects of the wind, however, I still need to weigh down anything I rest on the table, or simply remain holding an item so as not to lose it to the wind. As I venture back out I meet a bike-packer cycling in the same direction I am moving, on his way to Rivière-du-Loup as well. I will see him returning tomorrow on my final day’s approach into the city, and we will wave at each other with smiles. I walk until 3:30 in the constant wind when I decide to call it a day. I find an area of short grass just off the highway and put the tent up on it, the wind snatching it at every possible opportunity. Water bottles are required to weigh the tent and rainfly down until I am able to both stake the tent corners into the ground and thread the poles into the tent clips. Even with the tent secured, the wind grabs and pushes it around. As I lie inside, I can feel the strength of the wind acting on the walls of the tent. Inside by 3:45, I have no wish to exit. It saddens me to admit that I was not having much fun today. But, tomorrow is another day and may bring different circumstances. I am only thinking of getting to Rivière-du-Loup and away from this constant wind. It’s too bad, and I do not enjoy feeling this way, however this stretch of the walk ever since the town of L’Islet has been tough. I’ll need to reflect upon this later, at a more removed distance, and figure out what exactly the source of this discomfort really is—the wind, the disruption it caused, or if I’m simply feeling cranky due to something else altogether. I journal, snack, read, then fade into sleep soon enough.

Today’s distance walked: 45.14 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,143.98 km