Fredericton   |   Accommodation: The Fort Nashwaak Motel, 15 Riverside Drive Fredericton NB

Being in Fredericton feels incredible! I have always considered this city as a major milestone in the walk, similar to the cities of Montréal, Charlottetown, and St. John’s. Today will be a day for acquiring new gear, replacing old items that have lost their performance. So to make good use of the day, I wake early in order to soak all bedding—quilt, and liner. The base layers are washed and hung to dry. The long sleeve fleece is still damp, requiring additional drying time, so I suit up with the Patagonia rain jacket that will soon be replaced. I set out by 9:00, crossing the river by way of the walking bridge, on my way to invest in a coffee. I arrive at “Backtrails” sometime around 10:00. The people working at this store really know hiking, and I find a new rain jacket made by “Outdoor Research,” as well as a new pair of lightweight gloves that will keep my hands dry and warm in the rain. Thanks to Kaylee and the store team for helping me upgrade a few gear items, in the process having learned something new! I then walk over to the “Beaverbrook Art Gallery” where close to 2.5 hours are spent enjoying creative work made by Judy Blake, Edward Burtynsky, Shane Perley-Dutcher, and Susan Low-Beer, as well as work produced by the graduating class of the “New Brunswick College of Craft and Design.” There are even some paintings from Salvador Dali filling an entire wing of the gallery. Later, lunch is enjoyed from the restaurant “A Bite of Beijing” before returning to the east side of the river, picking up take-out from “Dixie Lee.” When I return to the motel room, all the rest of the clothing is hung up to dry. Tomorrow I should be able to re-pack the bag with all of the dry gear. By 4:00, I am ready after a full day to rest, eat, and sleep! Fredericton has been a great city to take a break from the trail in, and I am grateful to finally have experienced it.

Today’s distance walked: 11.88 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,647.66 km

French Village to Fredericton   |   Accommodation: The Fort Nashwaak Motel, 15 Riverside Drive Fredericton NB

I was walking by 5:50 along a very foggy Highway 102. By 9:30 my day has been eventful. Sitting comfortably in the Fredericton downtown café Mill Town — recommended by a group of locals I ask about coffee downtown — I look over the events of the morning so far as I wait until 10:00 for the stores to open. I had obtained coffee about an hour and a half into the morning from Michael at Johnny’s Ice and H2O gas station, with whom I talked for a few minutes. He told me about the city of Fredericton, things I might want to check out, but also warned me about the darker aspects of the city—aspects every city has. This morning’s walk into the city was planned purposely short at 16 km due to yesterday’s 52 km day. It is a good feeling, making the morning of walking into a city in which I have reservations and plans to stay for a few days. These actions extend and optimize the day, lengthening the time available for exploring and experiencing as much of the city as possible. An hour outside of the city, I find the Great Trail leading into the suburbs along the waterfront of the river. Not ten minutes into walking I hear a voice say, “Well, it looks like I should start walking.” I turn around and I see Jean with a big smile cycling up beside me! We laugh, and move toward the city together, each describing our evenings. We stop at a picnic table to exchange contact information and talk about our upcoming trekking plans. We wish each other well, and I again watch him ride along the trail ahead, disappearing beyond the trees and into the upcoming suburbs. By 9:30 I reach downtown Fredericton, locating the hike equipment store Backtrails. I arrive a half-hour early and ask a group of locals who are drinking coffee for a good café. They direct me around the corner. On the way to the café, I find two graphic design offices and make note of each in order to check out online. I also directly witness an attempted robbery in progress. I spotted a bookstore, and while I was looking inside through the front door a young woman opened the door and asked, “Coming in?” I said no, that I’m just looking. She then said, “I’ll just ease myself out then.” It was then I saw that she was carrying a basket loaded full of books. A few seconds later a staff member exited the store, running after her. A brief tug-of-war over the basket ensued on the sidewalk, with the woman exclaiming “Then call the cops! You know I wrote them!” I find the café and order a coffee. From the vantage point of my table, I determine that this morning had already proved interesting, and I’d only just arrived in town! By 10:00 I pack up and walk to Backtrails. I instantly know that the store and the people working there know their stuff! Patagonia, Arc’Teryx, Outdoor Research—the gear they carry is all serious, well-made equipment. This is where I meet Kaylee. We talk for 45 minutes and I explain what I am looking for, and as I will be returning tomorrow morning, I give the staff the evening to assess options for what will most optimally suit the kind of walking I will be doing over the upcoming month and a half to St. John’s. I then walk through downtown, making a note of things I will return to see as I am walking toward the hotel. I notice the beautiful Beaverbrook Art Gallery which I will definitely visit tomorrow. I walk to the hotel, crossing the river by way of the Bill Thorpe Walking Bridge which offers stellar views of the city. I wait twenty minutes for the preparation of the room, and then I am moving in. I fill up the tub in order to soak the tent and rainfly, using the bottle of gear cleaner recently purchased from Backtrails in order to restore water resistance. I also soak some clothing in the sink before walking to a market to re-stock the pack with food—5-minute rice, ramen, and trail mix. Returning to the room, my plan for the rest of the day is to remain as horizontal as possible for maximizing rest, watching television, and catching up on writing. Today is my day of rest and recuperation—and I am in Fredericton! I am finally in Fredericton…

Today’s distance walked: 29.96 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,647.66 km

Nackawic to French Village   |   Campsite: 45.95253° N, 66.84258° W

The morning begins smoothly, and I am out onto the road taking me back out to Highway 102 from the town of “Nackawic”, and shifting into my walking gear of 5 km per hour. I cross the bridge to the south side of the river and become acquainted with the quiet, peaceful Highway 102. Much of the morning is spent in reflection upon a few things: simplicity, strength, needs versus wants, portability, nomadism, and having everything I need to survive. This simplicity has brought me levels of happiness and fulfillment that I’ve not experienced before, and it has me returning to interests centred on “van life”, more nomadic lifestyles, and minimalism. I break for twenty minutes at 9:00 to cook a serving of rice and ramen noodles. By 9:20 I am back out walking. A brief shower falls, but this will be the only rain I will experience between now and a 12:30–1:30 break for a “Denny’s” lunch located at a gas station and rest area just off of the Trans-Canada Highway. I finish up, acquire a few pints for later, and set out. Jean was a bike-packer I met on Highway 102 six hours after leaving Nackawic at 11:30 earlier that morning. He explained that a bike trip of this magnitude was something that he was dreaming of doing over his retirement. His work (and wife) had allowed him three weeks of vacation time, and he decided that now was his opportunity for an epic bike trip. We discussed our trips so far, how our weather and independent camping experiences were going, and how our overall progress was unfolding. He mentioned that he had read a note I had left in a book back in a tiny little chapel in Québec (Day 29, Saturday, June 3, 2023). He did not give himself a set itinerary, and so was making his adventure up as he rode. He did say that he would like to see the province of Nova Scotia, and even St. John’s in Newfoundland if possible. A very welcoming and approachable man, he was a pleasure to talk with, and a nice laid-back person to communicate and share ideas with. I watch him pedal up the hill and over the horizon after we say goodbye and wish each other good luck. Amusingly, we would see each other once again—him exiting, me entering the gas station with Denny’s restaurant attached. Upon seeing me he exclaimed with a big smile, “I saw wine for sale and I wanted a bottle for the evening!” I respond, “I was thinking the same thing!” We share a laugh at the entrance to the store, and then he pedals off once again. I find a table at the restaurant, deciding to have a warm lunch. This is where I met Chris, Steven (his son), and Marilyn (Chris’ mother). They were a family moving from Ontario to New Brunswick, with today being their move-in day. This meal that they were enjoying would serve as their final one on the road between homes before becoming permanent residents of New Brunswick. My server at the restaurant was incredible, informing me which side add-ons were overpriced, and which meals were the most tasty and filling. I had a nice conversation with her also and wished I had asked her for her name, as she had a number of interesting questions about my walk. I am out into the day again by 1:30 after acquiring some tasty pints. On the highway, the driver of a cement mixer truck pulling out from a side road leans out of the window and asks if I need a lift. I say no, that I am walking to St. John’s, and he gives me a thumbs-up gesture as he drives off in the direction I am moving. I walk until 5:30. I spot a patch of land with relatively short grass, and trees for cover from the highway. As I don’t see any “private property” signs, I duck into the space to quickly set up the tent. And breathe… Today I walk longer than intended—close to 52 km. While sore and exhausted, I begin to feel better when I realize that the city of Fredericton (and three days of rest) is now only 16 km away. I will be in this city by 9:30 tomorrow morning to catch up on rest, eat fresh food, visit the much-anticipated “Backtrails” hike equipment store, explore the city, wash / repair / replace damaged gear, perform some foot care, decompress, and reflect upon what I have achieved so far! Clean, journal, read, and plan out tomorrow morning’s walk, as well as the three nights and four days I will enjoy in the city. This is by far the most important and re-affirming challenge that I have ever done, and am incredibly happy to have walked this far!

Today’s distance walked: 51.70 km    |    Total distance walked: 1,617.70 km